WOW Skopje

If you were to ask me where to spend a quiet weekend, Skopje could quite well be it. We’d heard about the crazy building spree that had been going on lately with statues everywhere but honestly we we’re blown away by this. It’s like they are trying to build a historic town in the modern day and to be honest, it looks great.

We spoke to some locals who said that Macedonia didn’t have the money for it, which is true but I really don’t know what to think. I feel that if you give people pride then they will try to achieve more. An example was one of the local waiters in town who in between customers was repainting the lamp posts that had graffiti on them, he didn’t need to do that and if the city looked like a dump he wouldn’t have.

Generally the people we met were very friendly and offered to help wherever they could. There isn’t even a remote air of danger about Skopje, we always felt very safe.

Spot the statue…..

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The old stone bridge with the fortress in the background.

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Well if you are going to build a man on a horse why not make him 30m high and on top of a fountain. Words can not describe how big this actually is when you’re stood in front of it.

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We had “breakfast” around 5 pm in a local restaurant where the waiter talked us through the entire menu and recommended the steak, which he said is the best quality as the restaurant pays 70+ euro for a kilo of it. There wasn’t even any fat on it. It was amazing.

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He even put together a mix of the deserts they did at the place which looked like this and was a plate with ice cream (home-made), tiramisu (home-made) and a chocolate cake with runny chocolate inside (home-made 20 minutes before we had it).

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When we walked back to the hostel from the restaurant we spotted a litter of four stray puppies (there are a few pictures of them further down) and spent while there playing with them, when all of a sudden two German girls, who were in Macedonia building a playground in a gypsy slum area, showed up with this puppy. They said they had found it in a hole in the ground, next to a dead puppy and it was being kicked by some kids so they rescued it and thought it might be a good idea to try and integrate it with the other four puppies. Unfortunately, that didn’t seem to work, and not because of the other puppies but because the new puppy was too shy to stay and play with them.

We went back to the hostel anyway, and chatted to a lovely couple from Los Angeles, and then Mike and J.C. decided to go tks the shop and get more wine and when they got back, mike had the new puppy on his arm. We spent the next few hours playing with it, giving it cream cheese and water, and when it was time to go out, Mike and I decided to take it back, find it a bed for the night and take it to a vet the next morning so it could get a flea-bath, all its ticks removed, and so we could get some advice on what to do with it next. Who knows, if it had been there when we got back, we might have even taken it with us for a bit. But it wasn’t. Poor thing.

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We had lunch the next day in a brewery garden, this was the view from our table onto the old town.

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The fortress was smaller from inside than it looked from the outside.

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The view on Skopje from the fortress.

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The old town.

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Double decker busses made us feel like we were in London.

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The litter of four puppies that we found. It seems like people here don’t own dogs but they feed the ones they want to feed and kick or ignore the rest. In return, the puppies are extremely cute.

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Me playing with the runt of the litter.

All in all, we were both absolutely blown away by the city and we can only say: Skopje, we’ll definitely see you again soon!

Kosovo and the rules on cheating part two

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After checking out late of the poshest most expensive hotel in Gnjilane (40€) we thought we had an easy 50km to Pristine. We couldn’t have been more wrong. The 400m climb out if town was easy and we thought we would roll down the rest of the way but were instead confronted by a headwind so strong we had to peddle hard while going downhill. Then the were the drivers. With about average age of 26 you would expect Kosovan drivers to be bad, but not this bad! Finally getting to Pristine we were left feeling lucky to have made it and made a promise to get the bus to Skopje instead.
Second rule of cheating: cheating death = not cheating.

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Road signs for tanks.

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Central Pristine was a bit chaotic but otherwise nice. People seemed friendly and relaxed but most of the buildings are new. Everything from the smallest store upwards has a security guard but you wonder why, it’s very safe.  A relic of the war perhaps.
The picture above is one of Pristine’s most famous monuments, the Newborn sculpture. Each year it’s repainted with a different design, this year it’s flags if countries that recognise Kosovo.

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Early evening we bumped into Andreas, who’s cycled 100,000km around Europe and agreed to meet later in the only Irish bar in town to swap stories. He has a FB page and website called cycleguide, check it out, especially if you can read German.
Later on in the night we met some freelance soldiers and went to a couple of bars with them, a few were decent but others quite twisted. It’s a strange world they live in. I just hope the Kosovo situation clears up quickly so they can move on.
On our way home we found a club packed full of Kosovans drinking and dancing, the music was great, it was good to see how much fun Pristine can be.

I chatted to several people about the situation with Kosovo and Serbia and to me it seems crazy that people fight over territory. I’m lucky enough to be from the UK, live in Austria and work in Italy for a Swedish company and I don’t want or need a country, Europe is my home. It seems inevitable that when these countries join the EU and people can move freely then fear will disappear and tensions will cease. All of these countries will join the EU within the next 10 to 15 years and for me it can’t happen soon enough. There are still disputed regions with Serbian majority in the north of Kosovo, I hope these can be given to Serbia, who cares about history, it’s what the population of those regions wants.

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The bus into Macedonia was interesting with snow covered mountains and a not so friendly border guard. Kathi had a nice sleep as usual.

The journey into Kosovo

Well yesterday was an interesting day, Kathi says the toughest mentally yet. We woke up in a hotel in Surdulica, Serbia in pouring rain already 45km behind schedule due to losing 20km a day for the previous 2 days. Normally this would not bother me but we didn’t really want to wildcamp in Kosovo as there is a small risk of landmines so we had to make it to Gnjilane or stay in Serbia, staying in Serbia meant there would be no time to visit Prishtine.

Anyway, we set off at 10 but were forced to take frequent stops for downpours and by 2pm had only managed 45km and it was still raining. The day looked bleak, we thought we had no chance of making it.

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Vranje was supposed to be our final stop last night.

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A quick break in the clouds and we set off, immediately taking the wrong road. Moral was low. Eventually we found the road but it turned into autobahn but rather than admit defeat we cycled past the road crew and onto the freshly paved autobahn which was only waiting for it’s grippy top layer. It was as smooth as glass and just for us, bliss! This continued almost to our destination, Bujanovac where for a short time we were on a horrible busy 2 lane road, the clouds really opened up and Kathi shed a tear or two. We knew we were close and pushed onto arrive at Bujanovac in torrential rain. 17km in 55 minutes!! Our best yet and from thinking we wouldn’t make it we now even had time for coffee and some food.

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Bujanovac, waiting out the rain in the last stop in Serbia before Kosovo.

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The gorge into Kosovo was pretty, we passed a couple of mosques and already kids were trying to stop us in the street, I was a bit apprehensive about where we we’re going. The border staff we’re friendly and that calmed us both down, I suppose the borders are highly regulated here.

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Afternoon prayer call at the mosque, strange hearing that in Europe.

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At last a rainbow.

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Finally the sun came out and we were in the beautiful Kosovan countryside.

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We arrived in central Gnjilane with lots of attention from passers by but everyone just wants to help. The average age of the population here is 26, the youngest in the world which is strange at first but the town just has loads of young inhabitants. We cycled inside the town for literally 20 seconds before a German-speaking guy on a bike rode up next to us and asked us whether we needed help finding a hotel, and then even took us there. I fixed my chain, which had a broken link, outside the hotel while Kathi went in to book us into a room and came back outside to tell me the room with a double bed, breakfast included, cost 40€ a night and we we’re allowed to keep the bikes inside. While she carried all our stuff upstairs, I was showed to a locked spare room where I was able to lock our bikes. It was perfect.

We then got a shower and went for a stroll, quickly figuring out that wd had taken the “young people coffee culture” not literally enough – there were loads of bars with young people, but nobody was drinking alcohol. Everybody had either coffee or coke. The upsides of a Moslem country I suppose.

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More of Gniljane.

We had dinner at the restaurant. Kathi ordered chicken with spinach (which turned out to be chicken bits on spinach pesto on top of rice with a side of chips. Not chicken and spinach.) and I ordered the local specialty which turned out to be mushroom sauce in a bowl of bread with a side of chips.
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Sofia to Surdulica

We spent the our last night at Hostel Mostel and got the amazing breakfast of fresh warm waffles, yoghurt, cereal, fruit, vegetables, toast, jam, coffee, tea, cheese, sausage, fruit juice and milk. When we sat down, we started having a conversation with a young Japanese guy who had just bought a bike and wanted to go cycle touring through Eastern Europe and asked for some advice on where to go and what to avoid. We were happy to help him and half-way through our conversation an American girl joined in who had been cycle-touring with her ex-boyfriend for more than 1000 km before they broke up. She was lovely and the conversation about cycling just rolled on, we ended up comparing bikes and gear. She wears her flip-flops riding an old mountain bike, and she put her gear together on the go in Croatia. I felt really privileged for having a new 20-gear MTB and clips – they are key for going uphill.
We set off after Mike fixed some things on her bike and it had come to be about half past 1 pm. We had planned to go ~80km that day. Safe to say that would be hard to accomplish.

We went to a lidl on the outskirts of Sofia to get some food and chocolates, and then followed the country road towards breznik. There was a fair bit of climbing involved in getting to Breznik which we really hadn’t been on the maps, which set us back in time quite a bit but by onetime we got to the top of the hill before Breznik, the downhill was just lovely to cycle through landscape-wise. We managed to get to Breznik around 4 pm and had lunch at a cafe with two really shy stray dogs that we fed when the waitress wasn’t looking. Think I may have mentioned before that I would be hopeless if I lived in a place that had many stray dogs as I would take them all in. All of them.

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Roadsign Breznik

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Me cycling uphill toward Breznik

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The top of the hill to Breznik

We wildcamped that night, well away from the view of cars passing and went to bed without eating, we were too tired after having gone up and down all day for 60 km. We were both really cold that night and despite our tiredness neither one of us slept particularly well.

The next morning we packed everything away, had a quick breakfast and set off around 9 am towards the Serbian border. We hadn’t gone our planned 80km the day before so we were planning on catching up to that the next day, even though we already had another 80km day planned. Not only that – we knew that this day we had planned on going up a 1365m mountainpass. Our elevation that morning was at about 500m. So we had to climb 850m and go 100km in distance.

We got to the border after cycling about 25km. The road was incredible, there were hills all around us and fields of rape (the yellow plant that they make rapeseed oil from.). The bottom of the hill was also where Bulgaria and Serbia bordered and as we went through border control we were asked to pull over and empty our bags. Now, considering that since we left Hungary all our border crossings were non-schengen and there had already been five of them, I have to say that the border control is really a little bit lenient when it comes to cyclists. Maybe in general. I’m not saying we would, but smuggling anything across a border on a bike seems like the way to do it.

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Road to the border with Serbia where we got searched

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Bulletholes in a building just before the Serbian border

We cycled on to Tran in Serbia where we thought we might stop but as soon as we did a few 20-or-so-year-old’s started walking towards Mike immediately so we decided to leg it quickly. The town seemed heavily policed but it was in a remote inaccessible valley that just recently has a new road thanks to EU money. Then we started our ascent.

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Roadsign for Tran

We were at 770m when the hill properly started. We took breaks at 1000m, 1100m, 1225m, 1300m and finally reached the top at 1368m. It was tiring. And let me revoke my earlier statement about music. I now used it as a motivational tool and it is fantastic.

We reached the top at about 3.30pm and when we finally saw the lake we had worked so hard to get to, I got so overwhelmed by its magnificence that it made me cry a little. Also I was just really relieved that it would all be downhill from then on. This day was our physically most challenging day so far and that was not only due to the massive climb.

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Lake vlasina at the top of a 1368m hill

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check out the elevation on that B!

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Coming down the hill just before it started throwing down rain

We had a lunch of crisps, chocolate and pasta that we wolfed down, then washed everything in the stream nearby and set off on our descent. The clouds had started to form into a big black menacing mess and, lucky as we are, it started to really throw it down as we were just gathering speed. I was wearing my stupid red emergency poncho that flew around my ears so much in the headwind it almost deafened me, no need to say I could hear absolutely nothing mike said to me. We rolled downhill in this cloudburst for about an hour, going 20km far until we got to a town called Surdulica. Picture us: me, wearing the hell out of flowered cycling shorts combined elegantly with a goretex green jacket, size large, and perfecting the style with an XL 2€ red poncho, a cycle helmet and a pair of dark-shaded primark sunnies. Drenched. Like a drowned rat. I have hardly ever looked better, even when I tried. On a good hair day. And mike, equally elegant with an orange-glassed pair of sports sunglasses, a goretex rainjacket, a helmet and sad-because-wet curls. We were a pair for any Serbian street style blog. And just like that we walked into a hotel, after 60km, 850m of ascent, and falling asleep standing up at 6pm.

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The view from our hotel room

Hagia Sofia

The journey from Vidin to Sofia was in parts breathtaking and we were initially excited to be spending 2 nights in the city but once we arrived we realised we’d left the GPS in Vidin and waiting for it meant the two nights quickly turned into 4. As it turned out this was not a disappointment. We stayed in a hostel called Hostel Mostel which offered free pool, a great free breakfast, free evening meal with beer, free WiFi and computers to use plus some of the most helpful staff we have met. We met a good group of people and had a great time.

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The gorge from Vidin to Sofia, it was hard to take it all in with a camera.

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The ladies market was one of the highlights but it’s called the ladies market due to selling fruit and veg mainly, sorry ladies but not many clothes!

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The oldest and the only mosque in Sofia

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Sofia is lucky to have a 2500m mountain overlooking the city which had snow on top at this time of year and can easily be seen from the high street.

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Food from the local monasteries in one of the best restaurants I’ve ever been to.

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The new pedestrianised high street

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Sorry for the lack of text in this post but we cycled up to 1400m today and are both shattered!

My impressions of our trip so far

So I thought I’d take the time to mention a few things about this trip that might be useful to others thinking about attempting something similar.

The first thing I would like to say is that I really did not think I would enjoy this trip as much as I do. I am LOVING cycling through the Balkans.  I loved Serbia (which I really did not expect, at least not to this extent), the people and the food and the atmosphere are all incredible, it is much more developed than Romania seemed and Bulgaria is.

I didn’t really enjoy Romania at all to be honest, but to be fair we only dipped in for a short time and judged it quite quickly when we were already a little tired, so my opinion might be biased. What I should tell you though, is that the city we were at, Drobeta-Turnu Severin, did not have a town centre, and according to Mike, neither does Bucharest. Instead, the place seemed to only have second hand shops and ATM’s. Almost exclusively. 

Bulgaria is not very inviting upon entering it, but the train ride from Vidin to Sofia revealed its unbelievably beautiful landscape with mountains, rivers, forestry, little towns, etc. We were almost tempted to get off the train and cycle all the way to Sofia. Sofia is an alright city, it hasn’t really thrown me off my socks yet though.

And now i would like to get to the bit that might be interesting for anyone wanting to go cycle-touring anywhere.

Here are my top 10 favorite things about this trip so far:

  1. I get to be outside. All. The. Time. This is a big deal for me because I live in apartment in the center of Vienna and going outside always involves spending money (going for a coffee, shopping, etc.) Basically, you have to go somewhere to be outside when it’s nice. Not on this trip. I am always outside. That fact will occasionally overwhelm me while cycling and I will start yelling like a crazy person “I am outside!!!” It’s a really liberating feeling.
  2. I exercise every single day (unless we have a rest day), and I usually can’t even tell because it feels more like I am trying to get somewhere rather than be in a gym or doing Insanity at home. And not only that, it trains the whole body for about 8 hours each day. In fresh air.
  3. I am spending so much quality time with Mike, just us two, talking about all sorts of stuff, without either one of us being distracted by any electronics such as TV or computers, phones, tablets, etc. Some might say a trip like that can put a real strain on a relationship. I think yes, maybe it can, but it hasn’t with us, at least not yet. I love spending so much time with just him.
  4. I’m usually not around wifi, at least not while we are cycling, and I usually leave my phone turned off. I love not constantly looking at my phone to see whether somebody wrote to me on facebook or any other social media network, or if anybody wants to talk to me. I get to choose when I want that information, it is not always readily available. It just feels so much more free.
  5. I am learning a lot about myself. Like my physical limits, my mental limits, I am building my confidence having to talk to people whose language I don’t speak, asking them whether we can camp on their grounds, etc. 
  6. I am either much fitter than I thought or it is just that much easier than I expected, but cycling all day is really nowhere near as hard as I was worried it might be. I thought I might at some point want to quit get the train back to Vienna, but I don’t. And I haven’t even thought of it. We do, however, usually overestimate how far we can go in a day and are then disappointed when we don’t make it.
  7. You get to see so much more than if you were on a train or in a car. We already saw 2 wild tortoises, a wild pig, a lizard mourning the loss of it’s wife and baby (that was really sad, they’d both been run over and the daddy was sitting by their dead bodies and only hurried away when we got too close. At least that’s what we think happened.), we heard wolves, we see stray dogs every day that are really shy but friendly (I am glad I live in Vienna where there are no stray dogs, otherwise I would probably take them all home with me. I found a particularly fluffy one today. I think it liked me.), and you learn to speak with your hands and feet.
  8. I love the Balkan culture, at least what I have seen so far. Hospitality is sacred, as is family and they pretty much all drink. I love that I get to really experience and soak up such a different mentality to what I am used to. It makes me think Austrians, or at least Viennese people, are really cold, unwelcoming and rude.
  9. When people ask about our travels, almost everyone is impressed by our tour. I have to say though that if somebody told me they were cycling out route and I wasn’t doing it, I would be impressed to and maybe think they were a little crazy.
  10. Joel, Grayson, Miles, Dracula, Leah, Devine, Sam, Josie, Wisconsin, Needledick, Scott, Ali, Kate Beckinsale, and all the other amazing people we met in Budapest Grandio Party Hostel. I loved meeting you all and I can’t wait to bump into you again as soon as possible! Giddy up, sluts and Pukahw!

Here are my 5 least favorite things about this trip:

  1. When Mike is cycling in front of me and then tries to talk to me. Imagine somebody walking three feet away from you, turning their back to you, putting their hand over their mouth and then talking to you without raising their voice. And expecting you to hear it. It is the most unnerving thing.
  2. Wind. It is frustrating to pedal and work so hard and get nowhere near as far as you could if it wasn’t for the damned wind! It’s fun as long as it’s a tailwind but as soon as it comes from any other direction, it is just hard work! Rain is much, much less annoying than wind.
  3. People beeping as they drive past. I understand that it’s exciting to see somebody on a fully loaded bike with a trailer, or that you just want to let me know that you are going to be passing me soon, but it scares me every time.
  4. Carrying the bikes and pannier bags and the basket and my helmet up the stairs into a hotel room. The pannier bags are really not very easy to carry at all.
  5. Dorm rooms. Especially when they don’t have a shower. What is so hard about whispering at 6 am?!

Here are the things whose usefulness I under- and overestimated. I call them my Underestimatives and my Overestimatives.

Overestimatives:

  • Clothes. So far I have been cycling for about 2 weeks and all I have used are 3 cycle shirts, 2 pairs of padded cycling shorts, 2 sports bras and one pair of shorts to go over the cycling shorts. I brought more than that and I don’t need it. You can basically count on being able to do laundry whenever you stay at a hostel and if you stay in hotels there are usually laundry places around.
  • Music. I brought a little speaker, some music on the tablet pc, even a pair of headphones and I have not even used any of those things once to listen to music while cycling. I am too occupied talking to Mike and focusing on getting up that next hill.
  • The stove. It is nice to cook when you are wildcamping but you can easily get by without one and they add about 2.5 kg to your baggage, and trust me, those 2.5 kilos make a difference when you are cycling uphill after an already – 80 km day.
  • A plastic basin that I brought to wash our stuff and ourselves, we might still end up using it but since we packed it, it has not seen the light of day.
  • Our fake wallets. I brought 4 wallets – 2 each for Mike and me. One of them I am currently using, the other one I have in case the first one gets stolen. My fake wallet has nothing in it that I am worried about losing – only expired credit cards, some cards that look like ID’s but aren’t, etc. I keep the stuff I am worried about losing nicely tucked away in a very inconspicuous little bag.The Balkans (at least so far) are not dangerous. We haven’t been pickpocketed or mugged and we were never in a situation where it was likely to happen. Bringing a fake wallet is a good idea but bringing an extra one was unnecessary.

Underestimatives:

  • Sunglasses. Not only do they protect you from the sun, they act as a very efficient “windshield” against things like insects, larger pieces of dust that might fly off a truck passing you, wind, rain, … Definitely do not go cycling without bringing a pair of sunglasses, you will really appreciate their use after the first bug hits them instead of your eye.
  • Tissues: They can be used for pretty much anything, ranging from being used as a wet towel to wash yourself to being a substitute for toilet paper, wiping off blood, wrapping stuff in them that’s leaking (like an aluminium tube that broke but has liquid inside it), etc. I cannot stress enough how much I underestimated the use of tissues.
  • Dextrose sugars. They usually do the trick if you’re tired, weak, and need a break or if you just need something sweet. The best ones I’ve had are the ones from dm, but get the ones in the tub, not the roll.
  • Carrier bags – I use them to separate my clothes into categories so I find what I need easier, we use them to cover our saddles to protect them from getting rained on, as bin bags, and to store the stove.
  • My basket that goes on the front of my bike. It is also used for everything and as the bin. It also makes it easy to snack while cycling – I like to get fruit and cut it up (oranges are ideal, apples and pears will do as well although they go brown) into a carrier bag (another use for that :D), and then stick it in my basket so I can just reach forward and eat it.
  • Mosquito spray. Bring 3 bottles or more. Trust me. The little bastards are hungrier than you think and they will bite you and some of them are really really big. I can recommend the brand “Nobite”, it really does its job and you can put it on in the morning and will still not get bitten in the evening. (i should get paid for this advert 😉 )
  • A wifi and GPS capable device, such as a tablet PC. They can be used as your book, your TV, your computer (to update the blog, for instance) and it is always good to have a “safety net” just in case you get lost. We use our GPS a lot and it always comes in handy, especially telling you how far you have gone, how much time you spent cycling, what time it is, your average and maximum speed, etc.

Those are basically my thoughts on this trip so far. I will probably do another post like that once we get to Corfu as there are quite a few climbs ahead of us and my perspective might change a bit. The most important message I want to convey is: If you are asking yourself “should I go cycle-touring?” my answer is 100% yes. I was worried initially, and despite all my fears, I am loving this and it is an experience I would not want to miss for anything!